Frequently Asked Questions

You tell us what you want. We shop our dealer network, assist in negotiating, coordinate paperwork with the licensed dealership, and deliver the vehicle.

We’re a car concierge/broker service. We assist in negotiating with our dealer network and coordinate the paperwork with the licensed dealership—so you don’t have to spend a Saturday at a dealership.

Many deals move fast — often a few days from first message to delivery (depending on inventory and distance).‍

‍Timing depends on vehicle availability, lender approval (if financing), and delivery distance. If you already know what you want and it’s available, we can move quickly. If you’re shopping a rare trim or waiting on incoming inventory, it can take longer.

Usually, no. That’s the point.‍

‍Most customers handle everything remotely. In some cases you might choose to test drive locally first (totally fine), but you don’t need to “sit in the box” to get a deal done.

Test drive locally at a dealership (no obligation), then come back to us to purchase/lease. We can set everything up for you.

That’s common. We’ll narrow it down with a few practical questions.‍

‍We’ll ask about budget, how you drive, passenger/cargo needs, must-haves, and nice-to-haves—then show you a short list of good options (with real numbers).

In most cases, the dealer pays us — you don’t pay a separate “buyer fee.”‍

‍We’re typically dealer-compensated (similar to how buyer’s agents work in other industries). Our incentives are aligned with making the process so good you tell a friend.

We don’t charge buyer fees for our service.

You still pay normal unavoidable costs like taxes, registration/title, and lender fees (if leasing/financing). We show everything clearly before you sign.

No catch — just a simpler process and transparent numbers.‍

‍The “secret” is we do the shopping, comparison, and paperwork work you’d otherwise do yourself—without the pressure tactics.

You’re paying for the vehicle’s depreciation during your term, not the full purchase price.‍

‍At the end, you return it (most common) or buy it for the preset buyout/residual amount in your contract.

Depends on how you drive and how long you keep cars.

‍Lease tends to fit if: you want a new car every 2–4 years, prefer lower payments, and drive within mileage limits.

‍Buy tends to fit if: you keep cars long-term, drive a lot, or want ownership/no mileage cap.

Tell us your situation — we’ll show both options with real numbers.

Usually as little as you comfortably can.‍

‍Big down payments can disappear if the car is totaled early. If you need to hit a specific monthly budget, we can structure it, but we’ll explain the tradeoffs.

A good deal is one where the math is clean: strong incentives, high residual, low money factor, and no junk add-ons.‍

‍We’ll break down what’s driving your payment so you can see if it’s a good program or just creative advertising.

Choose based on your actual driving — not optimism.

‍Quick estimate: commute miles + weekend/errands + trips.

Overage fees vary by lender/vehicle; buying miles up front is often cheaper than paying at lease-end.

Yes, but traditional early termination is usually expensive.

If you want flexibility, ask us about early-exit options (including LeasePass, if it’s part of your offering) and we’ll explain the tradeoffs.

You borrow to buy the car, then repay the loan + interest over time.‍

‍Payments depend on amount financed, APR, term length, and down payment/trade equity.

Do both and compare.‍

‍Get a pre-qualification from your bank/credit union, and let us check dealer/lender options. Use whichever is better.

Most people are best served by a term that balances payment and total interest.‍

‍Longer terms lower payments but can keep you upside-down longer. We’ll show the total cost difference so you’re choosing intentionally.

There’s no single magic number — lenders look at the whole profile.‍

‍Score matters, but so do income, debt-to-income, history, and stability. If one lender says no, another may say yes.

Pre-checks can be soft pulls; applications are usually hard pulls.

Hard pulls can cause a small temporary dip. Many scoring models treat multiple auto inquiries within a shopping window as one, but the window length can vary — we’ll keep pulls as tight as possible.

Yes, and it can help approvals and rates.‍

‍A co-signer is equally responsible for payments, so it’s a real commitment.

Yes. We can help you evaluate trade value vs payoff.‍

‍If you owe less than it’s worth, you have equity. If you owe more, that’s negative equity — we’ll show options for handling it.

Yes — often more money, more hassle.‍

‍Private party typically nets higher, but you’ll deal with listings, showings, negotiations, and timing.

Yes — delivery is available nationwide in the continental U.S.

Timing depends on distance, carrier availability, and the vehicle’s readiness.

We’ll send a checklist, but the basics are driver’s license + insurance.‍

‍Financing may require proof of income and lender forms. Trade-ins may require title/payoff info and registration.

LeasePass is an optional program designed to give you a clearer path to exit early (terms vary).

You pay overage fees outlined in your contract.

Rates vary by lender and vehicle. If you’re trending over, tell us early — sometimes there are smarter ways to plan.

Anything beyond normal use, based on lender guidelines.‍

‍We can help you interpret the inspection report and decide what’s worth fixing before turn-in.

Only what protects you from expensive, realistic problems — not dealer fluff.‍

GAP (in certain financing scenarios), service contracts if keeping long past warranty, and practical coverage like tire/wheel depending on your driving.

Similar idea, different coverage limits.

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GAP often covers the full difference between insurance payout and payoff (based on policy). Total loss programs may have a cap. We’ll explain what applies in your deal.

Taxes + registration/title are normal. Lease/loan fees depend on program.‍

‍You may see doc fees, acquisition fees (leasing), first payment, and upfront amounts if you choose a down payment. We itemize everything before you sign.

A lender fee to originate a lease.‍

‍Usually set by the lender and not negotiable; sometimes it can be rolled in.

A dealer paperwork processing fee (varies by dealer/state).‍

‍Some states cap it. We’ll flag anything that looks out of line.

Sometimes — it depends on the lender.‍

‍Some allow “assumptions” with fees and an approval process. We can check your lender’s policy.

Insurance pays the lender/lease company; any gap depends on your coverage.

If there’s a shortfall between payout and payoff, GAP/total loss coverage may apply. If it happens, contact us — we’ll help you get moving again.