Let me tell you something that'll save you from making a $10,000 mistake.
Most people walk into a dealership asking "should I lease or buy?" and the dealer shows them whatever makes the most profit that month. You need to answer this question before you talk to anyone trying to sell you a car.
Here's the framework I've used for 20+ years to help people make this decision without regret.
Lease if:
- You drive <12,000 miles/year
- You want a new car every 3 years
- You need lower monthly payments right now
- You're okay with never owning the car
Buy if:
- You keep cars 6+ years
- You drive >15,000 miles/year
- You want no mileage restrictions
- You want to build equity and own it outright
Do the math: Compare the 5-year total cost of both options (payments + down payment + maintenance + insurance + resale/lease-end costs). The option with the lower 5-year cost wins.
Most people choose wrong because: They only compare monthly payments. That's how dealers trick you into expensive decisions.
The Real Cost Difference
Monthly payments lie to you. Here's what actually matters:
When you lease:
- You're paying for 3 years of depreciation (typically the steepest drop in value)
- Lower monthly payment, but you walk away with $0 at the end
- You're renting the car—you never own it
- Mileage limits apply (typically 10K-15K miles/year, $0.20-$0.30/mile overage)
When you buy:
- You're paying for the full vehicle cost (spread over 5-6 years)
- Higher monthly payment, but you own an asset worth $15K-$25K at the end
- No mileage limits—drive as much as you want
- You can sell it anytime without penalties
The 5-year comparison most people skip:
Let's say you're deciding between a $35,000 Honda CR-V.
Lease route (3 years):
- $450/month × 36 months = $16,200
- $2,000 down = $18,200 total
- At month 36: turn in car, start over with $0 equity
- Repeat for another 24 months (to reach 5 years) = another $12,600
- 5-year total: $30,800 (and you own nothing)
Buy route (5 years):
- $650/month × 60 months = $39,000
- $3,000 down = $42,000 total
- At month 60: you own a car worth ~$18,000
- 5-year net cost: $24,000 ($42K paid - $18K asset = $24K cost)
Winner: Buying saves you $6,800 over 5 years in this scenario.
But that's not the end of the story.
The 3 Questions That Decide This
Question 1: How many miles do you actually drive per year?
Check your current car's odometer. Take current miles ÷ years you've owned it = average annual miles.
- <10K miles/year: Leasing works. You won't hit overage fees.
- 10K-15K miles/year: Toss-up. Lease mileage packages exist but add $20-40/month.
- >15K miles/year: Buy. Lease overage fees ($0.20-$0.30/mile) will destroy you.
Real example: You drive 18,000 miles/year. Your 3-year lease allows 12K miles/year (36K total). You'll return the car with 54,000 miles = 18,000 over. 18,000 miles × $0.25/mile = $4,500 overage fee at lease-end.
That $450/month lease just became $575/month effective cost.
Question 2: How long do you typically keep cars?
- Trade every 2-3 years: Lease. You're never out of warranty, always have the latest tech.
- Keep cars 4-6 years: Slight edge to buying. You'll own it outright and can drive payment-free years 6-10.
- Keep cars 8+ years: Buy, no question. Leasing twice costs more than buying once.
Question 3: What's your actual priority—monthly payment or total cost?
Be honest.
- If you need a $400 payment max and can't stretch to $600 → lease gives you more car for less payment right now.
- If you're okay with higher payments to save money long-term → buy wins over 5+ years.
Neither answer is wrong. Just don't lie to yourself.
Step-By-Step: How to Actually Decide
Step 1: Calculate your real annual mileage
Go to your current car. Write down current odometer reading ÷ years you've owned it.
Step 2: Decide your ownership timeline
How long have you kept your last 3 cars? Average those years.
Step 3: Get real quotes for both
Same car. Same trim. Same down payment.
- Lease: 36 months, 12K miles/year
- Buy: 60 months
Write down:
- Monthly payment (both)
- Down payment (both)
- Lease-end fees (disposition, overage estimate)
- Estimated resale value at 5 years (use KBB)
Step 4: Do the 5-year math
Lease: (Monthly payment × 36) + down + lease-end fees + (next car down payment) = total 5-year cost
Buy: (Monthly payment × 60) + down - estimated resale value = net 5-year cost
Step 5: Pick the lower number
Unless there's a strong reason to ignore the math (you genuinely don't care about total cost), pick the option that costs you less over 5 years.
Common Mistakes People Make
Mistake #1: "I only care about the monthly payment"
That's how people lease a $50K BMW at $600/month when they could buy a $35K Honda at $650/month and actually save money over 5 years.
Dealers train salespeople to ask "what monthly payment are you comfortable with?" because it hides the total cost from you.
Mistake #2: "Leasing is just throwing money away"
Not always true. If you're the person who trades every 3 years anyway (whether you lease or buy), leasing costs you less because you're not eating the depreciation hit of trading in a 3-year-old car.
Mistake #3: "I'll buy out my lease at the end"
Lease buyouts are almost always a bad deal. The residual value (what you'd pay to buy it) is set 3 years earlier and often higher than market value.
If you think you'll want to keep the car, just buy it from the start.
Mistake #4: "I can always get out of a lease if I need to"
Not without pain. Voluntary lease termination costs you thousands. Lease transfers take 2-3 months and require someone to take over your exact payment. You're stuck.
Buying gives you flexibility—you can sell a car anytime at market value.
Real Examples (With Actual Numbers)
Example 1: The 10K-mile-per-year driver who trades every 3 years
Profile: Drives 9,500 miles/year. Loves new cars. Historically trades every 3 years.
Lease option: $425/month × 36 = $15,300 $2,000 down = $17,300 total Repeats in year 4 = another $15,300 (new lease) 5-year cost: $32,600
Buy option: $625/month × 36 = $22,500 (pays off in 3 years, trades) $3,000 down = $25,500 paid Trade-in value after 3 years: $20,000 Net cost of first 3 years: $5,500 Repeats for another car = $5,500 more 5-year cost: $11,000
Wait, buying is cheaper?
No—I'm showing you the trick. When you buy and trade after 3 years, you're underwater on the loan and lose $3K-5K on the trade every time. The real 5-year cost is closer to $35K-38K when you factor in negative equity.
Winner: Lease (for this person—because they'll never keep a car long enough to benefit from ownership).
Example 2: The 18K-mile-per-year driver who keeps cars 8+ years
Profile: Commutes 50 miles/day. Current car has 140K miles. Never trades.
Lease option: $450/month × 36 = $16,200 $2,000 down = $18,200 Overage fees: 18K miles/year × 3 years = 54K miles (vs 36K allowed) = 18K over × $0.25 = $4,500 Repeat once more = another $22,700 5-year cost: $40,900 (and stuck repeating leases forever)
Buy option: $650/month × 60 = $39,000 $3,000 down = $42,000 After 5 years: car is paid off, worth ~$17K Net cost: $25,000 Years 6-10: $0 payments, just maintenance 5-year cost: $25,000 (then drives payment-free for 5+ more years)
Winner: Buy (by a landslide).
Example 3: Business owner writing off a vehicle
Profile: Self-employed. Needs SUV >6,000 lbs for Section 179 tax deduction.
Lease option: $700/month × 36 = $25,200 × 80% business use = $20,160 deductible over 3 years Tax savings (35% bracket): $7,056
Buy option: $65,000 purchase × Section 179 deduction (capped at $32K for SUVs) × 80% business use = $25,600 year-1 deduction Tax savings (35% bracket): $8,960 in year 1 alone
Winner: Buy (for tax strategy).
Where Vantage Fits
Here's something most people don't realize: you can lease or buy through a broker.
We shop 350+ dealers to get you the best deal on either option—no showroom games, no pressure to pick one over the other based on what makes the dealer more money.
We show you the real numbers (cap cost, money factor, residual for leases / sale price, APR, trade value for purchases) so you can make this decision with full transparency.
If you want to run both scenarios and see which actually saves you money over 5 years, that's exactly what we do. Get a quote for both, pick the one that makes sense for how you drive.
The Bottom Line
The lease vs buy decision isn't about which one is "better."
It's about which one fits how you actually drive, how long you keep cars, and what you prioritize (lower payments now vs lower total cost over time).
Don't let a dealer make this decision for you based on what's most profitable for them that month.
Run the 5-year math. Be honest about your mileage. Pick the option that costs you less money or gives you the flexibility you need.
Next step: Get real quotes for both options so you can compare actual numbers, not guesses. We'll show you lease and purchase pricing on the same car—no pressure, just numbers.
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